Every year, during the month of June, Lisbon throws a party of epic proportions. A city-wide soiree not to be missed. Local residents construct makeshift food stalls and grill sardines and chorizo in the streets. Thick plumes of smoke billow over Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods and crowds of revelers sing and dance until dawn. It’s the Feast of Saint Anthony and it’s a wondrous celebration of food, color and culture.
A Sermon to the Fishes
Saint Anthony of Padua is Lisbon’s Patron Saint. Born Fernando Martins to a wealthy, noble family in Lisbon in 1195, he entered the church at the tender age of 15. He traveled to Morocco in 1220 to preach to the Saracens (Muslims) and be martyred, but fell ill during his journey and was forced to return home. His ship back to Portugal was blown off course and after landing in Sicily, he continued to teach Theology in Italy and in the south of France. He was revered for his extreme devotion and celebrated as one of Saint Francis of Assisi’s greatest followers. On one occasion, he traveled to Rimini, a town of known heretics, to spread his gospel. Feeling dejected by the town folk, he headed to the banks of the river Ariminus and started to speak to the fishes. He proclaimed “Hear the word of God, you fishes of the sea and of the river, since the corrupt heretics refuse to hear it.” It is then said that something inexplicable happened. Thousands of fishes emerged from the water, with their mouths open and heads bowed, and swam toward him to hear his powerful liturgy. The town folk witnessed it and declared it a divine miracle. A few years later, Saint Anthony died en route to Padua, on June 13, at the young age of 35. He was canonized less than a year later.
On Culture and Tradition
Today, St. Anthony remains widely revered as the Patron Saint of lost items and is also prayed to by single girls seeking a husband. Every year, during the month of June, he is remembered by Lisboetas and visitors alike, feasting on grilled sardines to commemorate his sermon to the fishes. During the festival, Lisbon’s ancient neighborhoods of Castelo, Mouraria, Graça, Alfama, Ajuda and Bairro Alto are adorned in festive regalia. Tightly cobbled streets are strung with colorful streamers and lined with festive food stalls. Small pots of globed basil adorned with paper carnations and affectionate messages to Saint Anthony are sold as offerings to family and friends, as a symbol of love and good fortune. Lisbon’s costume-clad youth parade around the neighborhoods proudly playing the familiar songs of the city. It’s wonderful and chaotic and loud. A celebration of Lisbon’s soulful spirit.
A Feasts of all Feasts
The celebration culminates on June 12, the eve of the anniversary of St. Anthony’s death. It starts with a spirited parade down the Avenida da Liberdade and then spiders throughout the city. Vendors sell shots of ginja, Lisbon’s intoxicatingly flavorful cherry liquor, and glasses of vinho verde. The air is blanketed by dense clouds of charred sardines and grilled meats. Bands play on makeshift stages sprinkled around the city. The music is loud and infectious. Hoards of revelers spill into the streets, singing, dancing and laughing. Strangers become friends, toasting one another and the festivities continue well into the wee hours of the next morning.
The following day, locals carry candles and embark on a silent procession that snakes through the narrow streets of Alfama to the Sé cathedral, lending a special religious flavor to the festival and paying homage to the memory of their’s city’s beloved Patron Saint.
Chin chin! Até logo!