The Land that Time Forgot
Tucked in a tiny fold of Cornwall, perched on a hill overlooking Mevagissey Bay sits a gem of a manor house with acres of prolific gardens and dense wooded parkland. At first glance, it looks like one of any number of Victorian Estates sprinkled around the quaint Cornish countryside. But we soon learn it’s so much more. We’ve arrived at the Lost Gardens of Heligan and we’re soon to hear an unforgettable Gothic ghost story of epic proportions.
Tracing the Tremaynes
For nearly 4oo years, Heligan was the ancestral home of the Tremaynes, one of the most noble lineages of Cornwall. The estate remained a time-honored family treasure for centuries, being passed from generation to generation. Historians date the structural foundations of the gardens to the late 18thcentury, created by Henry Hawkins Tremayne, whose deep affection for botanicals and rare specimens led him on frequent plant hunting expeditions around the world. After his death, John Hearle Tremayne, a passionate arborist, continued his father’s legacy by introducing small saplings from South America, Chile and Nepal, which he planted in a plot of the gardens which would become known as “The Jungle”. When John Hearle passed in 1851, his son John and grandson Jack further expanded the gardens to include rare propagations of rhododendrons, coming from as far away as the Himalayas. The father and son team even hybridized many of their own varieties. To date, the rhododendron collection at Heligan remains one of the best across all of England.
Giant Rhododendrons
A Garden in its Splendor
The gardens at Heligan thrived into the beginning of the 20th century, employing an army of 22 gardeners to maintain the expansive grounds and bountiful fruit and vegetable gardens. Jack Tremayne had developed a deep love for Italy and traveled there often. In an effort to bring a little piece of the Mediterranean to Cornwall, he built an opulent Italianate garden, with a long plunge pool, a dancing fountain, and fragrant pockets of herbs tucked into the crevasses of the pathway stones. It was his refuge, his special place where he would lose hours and days basking in the sun and entertaining guests.
The Italian Garden
Troubled Times
In 1914, the Great War broke out. Jack applied for the draft, but at 45, he was considered too old to serve. Most of the gardeners were called to duty and sadly, many were killed in battle. During the war, Heligan served as a makeshift military hospital and by the late 1920s, an exhausted Jack moved to Italy. The Heligan Estate was in a sad state of disrepair and the gardens were slipping into ruin. During the second World War, Heligan once again served as a safe house, this time for orphans and refugees. In 1949, Jack passed away, leaving no heirs and the once magnificent estate slipped into her sullen and inevitable slumber.
Unearthing the Sleeping Beauty
In the early 1990s, Brits Tim Smit and John Nelson set out to excavate the overgrown ruins. Smit recounted their extraordinary efforts (with spectacular photos) in a darling book entitled The Lost Gardens of Heligan. It is an enchanting and prolific read.
“Even the wind seemed to hold its breath, the only sound a faint and distant creaking, like the settling timbers of a ship at anchor. The dank, dark place had its own strange beauty.”
-Tim Smit
The project took five daunting years to complete and each discovery was more fantastic than the last. Perhaps the most haunting find was the faded penciled signatures of the gardeners on the thunderbox wall, dated 1914.
A Return to Glory
Today, the grounds and gardens have been lovingly restored to their former Victorian splendor. Two iconic sculptures have been added to the Woodland Walk, The Mud Maiden and the Giant’s Head, adding to the enigmatic atmosphere of the gardens. It’s as though the spirits of the estate still scamper through the forest and peek out from behind the towering timbers, keeping close watch over its hallowed grounds.
The Lost Gardens of Heligan are located in Pentewan, Cornwall, five hours southwest of London. The gardens are open daily, with the exception of Christmas.