Situated south of Sicily and north of the African mainland, the archipelago of Malta is perfectly placed at the center of the Mediterranean Sea. The archipelago consists of three islands: Malta, Gozo and Comino and combined, measures only a mere 27 miles in length. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in stunning architecture, varied landscapes and scenic viewpoints. Malta, the largest of the three islands, offers 122 miles of shimmering coastline and with a little planning, the entire island can be traveled in a day.
INTRODUCING VALLETTA
Valletta, the capital of the Maltese Republic, is a stunning and tightly stacked limestone city. Originally built as a fortress to protect the bordering harbors, today it remains an imperial, stately mecca of culture, heritage and art. In 2018, it was celebrated as the European Capital of Culture, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world.
All of Malta can easily be explored from Valletta, which is bustling with shops and cafes. A stroll down the main pedestrian thoroughfare of Republic Street passes by the charming Piazza Regina and ends at Fort St. Elmo, now home to The National War Museum. Film buffs will also recognize the fort as one of the filming locations for Midnight Express(1978). End the day with a spectacular sunset stroll by the harbor or take to the streets after dark as the city sparkles and shines with light, color and music.
TRAVELING FURTHER AFIELD
To experience the very best of what Malta has to offer, either rent a car or hire a driver/guide to show you around. Malta was part of the British empire for over 15o years, so the Maltese drive on the left side of the road. An exhilarating way to explore the island is on a small group Defender Jeep Safari, which combines both on and off-road adventures. However you choose to explore the environs beyond Valletta, I guarantee you won’t be disappointed by the spectacular scenery and incredible architecture offered by this tiny island nation.
AND AWAY WE GO!
After a 40 minute journey from Valletta, we arrived in Mellieħa, in the Northeast corridor of Malta, with its rocky, barren terrain. We stopped off at St. Agatha’s Tower (also known as the Red Tower), a 17th century, sunburnt fortress standing in solitude, protecting the valley below. From the castle walls, you could see for miles in every direction.
IN SEARCH OF POPEYE
We continued on to Anchor Bay for panoramic views over Popeye Village where in 1980, Robert Altman directed the cult classic Popeye movie starring Robin Williams. This wobbly, ramshackle cartoon village was built in this remote corner of Malta exclusively for the movie. After the filming ended, the local residents realized how much they loved the makeshift town and chose to keep it intact. Today, Popeye Village remains a prized attraction for children and adults alike, drawing thousands of visitors annually.
THE MIRACLE CHURCH
Traveling inland from the coast, an enormous circular church with a domed roof came into view. With a design inspired by The Pantheon in Rome, construction of the Mosta Dome broke ground in 1833 and continued for 15 years. The church gained worldwide popularity at the beginning of WWII when three bombs were dropped in Mosta, one of them piercing the dome of the church during a busy evening service. Miraculously, the bomb never detonated and not a single person was injured. Since then, the church has been referred to as The Miracle Church and a replica of the bomb is displayed near the nave.
THE SILENT CITY
Shortly after leaving Mosta, we traveled to the ancient fortified city of Mdina, a glistening crown jewel perfectly perched above the surrounding villages. Mdina dates back to 800 BC and was originally established by the Phoencians. It is also believed that St. Paul resided there after his shipwreck left his stranded on the island in 60AD. Mdina once served as the capital and administrative center of Malta, until the Middle Ages, when the order of St. John arrived. Since that time, Mdina lost its political power but was still revered by religious and aristocratic figures. Today, Mdina is home to just over 200 inhabitants, all direct descendants of prior residents.
Entering the main gate of Mdina revealed an enchanting hidden fortress of solitude with towering, golden sandstone walls, narrow cobbled corridors and doorways adorned with religious icons. Mdina, also referred to as The Silent City, felt like a time-honored tomb holding the secrets and stories of the centuries past close to its heart.
THE MALTESE FALCON
Shortly after leaving Mdina, we arrived in Żurrieq, said to be one of the oldest towns in Malta dating back to the Bronze and Punic ages. Storied for its historical significance, it is also offered stunning seaside views of windswept, weather carved cliffs and a cave dubbed The Blue Grotto.
Natural stone stairs led down to the most panoramic views of the Grotto, where I also met a lone falconer named Lawrence and two of his prized birds of prey. I learned falconry in Malta dated back to the 12th century, when Emperor Frederick II, who was an avid ornithologist, practiced the sport. After chatting with Lawrence for a few minutes, he graciously offered me the opportunity to fly his young falcon, Spiro. He handed me a long leather glove and asked Spiro to climb on my arm. Then, under his master’s watchful eye, Spiro soared away towards the grotto, only to return when Lawrence offered up a tiny white mouse.
THE EYES ARE ALWAYS WATCHING
The final stop on our island adventure was the idyllic, colorful fishing village of Marsaxlokk, on the southeastern tip of the island. Here, hundreds of multicolored traditional fishing boats referred to as Luzzu, dot the harbor. The Luzzu are painted in different color schemes of yellow, red, green and blue, but at closer inspection, all of the boats had one unique feature, a set of eyes at the bow. The tradition dates back to Phoenician times and offers safety and protection for the fisherman. Marsaxlokk is buzzing hub on Sundays during the weekly fish market. On any other day of the week, it’s great to just wander the waterfront, snack on local Maltese almond cookies and soak in the salty sea air.
