And with that, we’re off on an epic adventure to the Kingdom of Morocco. The country is exotic, enchanting and an absolute feast for the senses. Fez was the first stop on our inaugural visit and I won’t soon forget this gem of a city.
The King’s Palace
We start our day driving through the modern parts of Fez, stopping first at the Royal Palace (Dar el Makhzen), where the current King stays when he is in the city. The sprawling complex sits on nearly 200 acres and features seven sets of exquisitely engraved arched brass doors. The palace is closed to visitors, but standing in awe of the magnificent façade was certainly a treat of royal proportions.
The Ancient Art of Zellige
While we are at the palace, our guide gives us an introduction into Moroccan architecture. We learn about the four key characteristics found in nearly every building: carved alabaster, ancient Arabic calligraphy, wood panels and Zellige. Zellige is the intricate mosaic tile work that graces the city, an art form still practiced today by highly skilled artisans who have spent decades mastering their trade. Training begins in childhood by the maâlems (master craftsmen) and is handed down from generation to generation. The work is laborious and requires incredible precision yet pays very little, raising concern that the craft might disappear in today’s world of mass production. We enter two oversized metal doors that lead into a workshop where we have the privilege to observe these modern masters practice their age-old craft. It’s loud, dusty, the constant knocking of hammers hitting tiles and the artists entranced in their meticulous rituals. It’s oddly hypnotic.
We quickly realize what an intensive and tedious process it is. The first craftsman selects fired ceramic tiles and draws an outline of small geometric patterns. The second craftsman rough cuts each tile with a small, sharp hammer. Then, a third master craftsman chisels the tiles with the most delicate and precise cuts. Once all of the cuts are completed, the tiles are assembled color-side down in a metal frame and mortar is applied.
The Medieval Medina
We say our farewells to the artists and wander towards the medina. Our guide Said is a charming and gifted storyteller and we are soaking up all of his anecdotes and musings. Born in Fez, he’s lived most of his life within the walls of the medina. As we enter the Blue Gate, we feel immediately transported back in time. The cobbled streets are narrow, over 9500 of them, are bustling with caftan clad shoppers, donkeys weighted down with rolled rugs and animal hides, and curious stray kittens scavenging for scraps of food. Everywhere we look, we see vibrant pops of color and crumbling architecture. We learn the artisans and sellers are grouped together in souks, by the products they offer. Said shows us the spice souk, replete with burlap sacks overflowing with pungent aromatics. Each purveyor is welcoming and claims to have very best Ras-El-Hanout, a proprietary, peppery blend of up to 28 different spices. We wander through the carpentry souk, the ironwork souk and the blade sharpening souk. We linger a little longer in the shoe souk staring at rows and rows of slippers dyed in every color imaginable. We wrap our heads with silk scarves in the dyer’s souk. Soon I realize I might be in the market for another suitcase, to stow away all of this breathtakingly beautiful loot.
A Sprig of Mint
We wander towards the bottom of the medina and I’m soon knocked in the face with a stingingly rancid odor. We’ve arrived at the Chouara Tannery, the largest tannery in all of Morocco. Tanning is the ancient craft of turning animal hides into soft leather and the Chouara Tannery dates back to the 11th century. The hides are first cured and softened in a mixture of pigeon feces and cow urine, a process that can take up to three days. Once softened, the hides are dyed in large clay vats housing colors made from the natural pigments of plants and minerals. Once dyed, the hides are hung from the balconies to dry in the intense sun. We climb the stairs to one of the viewing terraces to watch the process and the odors grow even stronger and more unpleasant. We are offered sprigs of mint to hold under our nose, but it does little to deter from the foul stench. So for a while, we just breathe through our mouths and watch on as the workers tend to this fascinating and ancient practice.
You really should add Morocco to your bucket list….and when you visit, you must spend some time in Fez. You won’t regret it.
Mae alsalama Fez. Until we meet again.